With her collection, which was a triumph for women everywhere, Brazilian designer Karoline Vitto, who is based in London and was a graduate star of the Fashion East incubator program, brought Milan fashion week to a tearful close.
She was showcasing as part of Dolce & Gabbana’s “Supported by” initiative, which has seen the brand support up-and-coming artists and present their shows in cities for the previous three seasons. Vitto deliberately excluded any “sample” size models from her London studio and cast models in sizes 10 to 24.
The passionate designer passionately declared, “For me, it’s very natural,” following the show. Since most women are not representative samples, there shouldn’t even be a debate about why it matters. Instead, we should be acknowledged.
Ashley Graham, the supermodel, stole the show with a maxi-length black woven dress. A closer examination of the jersey and metal components that Vitto has made her trademark came next. The body was sculpted by jersey dresses, which hugged the exposed areas with curved metal hardwear. Cut-out crop tops were worn with liquid silk maxi skirts that had draped trains, and leopard print bustier bodysuits were worn with loose blue jeans that were turned up at the bottom. A denim jacket that was cropped and snipped high over the hips fit perfectly over.
Vitto was emotional as Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana embraced her backstage and assured her that they would always be there for her.
The Milan Fashion Week is infamous for its lack of representation of a wide variety of body types. Over the course of the week, editors’ clavicles and protruding hip bones caused them to visibly wince. Tiny hot pant shorts and thigh-skimming dresses and skirts were everywhere, and despite the show’s press releases’ flowery claims of inclusivity, the actual displays were anything but.
Graham told reporters that “this is normal” after entering the Dolce & Gabbana store on Saturday. This is the proper arrangement. Would you like to discuss diversity? That is variety. We need more curves on the runway, more designers doing this, and for this to become the norm. There must be something abnormal on other runways if I’m feeling normal on one with this many girls.